Matterhorn Loop - August 2016

(53 miles) Trailhead at Twin Lakes, parking at Mono Village Resort, "nine strong women."

Day 1 (~7 miles) - We started out in Crags Campground where we each grabbed a bear can and either a stove or fuel canister. We had to drive to Annett's Mono Village where the trailhead is, register the cars, and then start out through the RV park.  So the start was nice and gentle through the RV park. We got a few comments, questions, and encouragements. Then it started out gradually up and I'm thinking, oh yeah, I can do this. And then it got real... quick. We passed Barney Lake and then it was up and it was rocky. This was billed as our most difficult day so no surprise that it just kept going up with lots of rock steps. One mule train passed us going the opposite direction. As they were coming toward us, we all looked at the leaders for advice about where to go on the single track with a pretty good drop and mules coming at us. Basically we just pressed ourselves against the upward rock and one of the leaders told us to hold on. lol No incidents. I did struggle with how I felt about the mules traveling over that terrain with all the weight of humans' gear. Everyone else seemed to think they enjoy the work and that they enjoy the 8 months of the year vacation.

We made it to the top of the lollipop stick and "hung a right" toward Peeler Lake. It would have been helpful to know that "Hey! We're at the lake!" does not mean we're done hiking yet. To find camp, we had to continue up and down the rocky edge of the lake... probably another mile. But we found a great site with an obvious kitchen right on a creek. I camped on the granite with a nice granite shelf next to me and a tree for hanging things. Views in every direction!

My campsite

The view from my tent

Day 2 - A "recovery" day through Kerrick Meadow with a bit of a non-recovery climb up Seavey Pass. The meadow was incredible! The trail was about 8 inches wide so we really had to watch our steps. That was difficult since I wanted to look around all the time. As the day progressed, it did get very hot in the wide open space. At some point we crossed a river that was low but still enough to get our feet wet. But one of the group fell on her butt in the water and then couldn't get up because of her pack. Not too dangerous in this situation but a reminder for those harder river crossings to disconnect the waist belt. I think she actually ended up being grateful for the wet pants because of the heat. lol

Eventually we began climbing up Seavey Pass. At that point, another member started feeling sick with gastrointestinal issues. She climbed Seavey like a trooper and we took it a bit slower. We passed a lake, whose name I don't know, where there were a few campsites but they were too small for our group. So we kept climbing just over the pass to a hidden campsite that would fit us. As we started getting settled, the leaders came by and said there was a better site just on the other side of some rocks. So we picked everything up and moved to the new site. I just carried my tent with the poles in it. lol The lake next to the site was pretty sludgy so we had water to cook with but no one swam in it. I did take the opportunity to wash my shirt but it didn't help much. I and another member of the group set up just to the side of the kitchen. That was good for less distance walking while there. BUT... at night I realized that the kitchen is where the bears will likely go first. Oops! But, aside from getting up to go to the bathroom 3 times in the first two hours of the night, all was well.

View from the campsite over the sludgy water

Day 3 - A downhill off Seavey Pass for about 3 miles before taking a .4 mile detour for some swimming, relaxation, and lunch at Benson Lake. While there, a mule/horse train went through with two wranglers(?) and one customer. It was my day to serve lunch and PB&J on tortillas it was. After lunch and some foot maintenance, we headed off for Smedburg Lake where we would spend two nights. It was flat coming out from the lake but then began to climb for a couple miles. The climbing intensified the last 1.5 miles. I was not feeling well by this point so those last miles, including the climbs, were torture. Others did not struggle nearly as much so it was not likely "that" difficult. It was just my day to struggle apparently. At Smedburg Lake, we made camp on the granite on the southwest side with a high kitchen overlooking the lake. Our neighbor was a young man named Seth who asked if he could cook us some fish. Uh. Yeah! About six of us shared a trout but even with just one bite, I could tell it was scrumptious! Dinner was tomato soup and polenta stew.

Day 4 - A rest day for four of us while the other five did a dayhike to Surprise Lake. We made pancakes for breakfast and then my time cooking was over for a few days. The dayhikers said it was awesome and beautiful but I enjoyed hanging out at the lake swimming, doing laundry, and reading. When the other five returned, three of us were doing yoga. Volunteer Peak watched over us and was a beautiful site at every stage of the day.

Volunteer Peak

Day 5 - After a rest day, it was not too easy to get up and get going. But I definitely felt rested. Off we went to finally make our way into Matterhorn Canyon. Wow! We made our way over Benson Pass, which did not seem too much. As we traveled through Matterhorn Canyon, we were approaching Burro Pass, our main goal for the day. We stopped for lunch at the headwaters of Matterhorn Creek. A few drank directly from the creek since there is no crossover above that point. No one got sick so must be okay. I didn't risk it. After a good lunch (hummus and crackers), we headed out toward Burro Pass, which we'd had trouble pointing out while sitting for lunch. It was not where we thought it was but we were close. It was a hot dry climb up numerous switchbacks for about 45-minutes. When we reached the top, there was a snow drift that we were able to play in to cool off. The 360 degree views were amazing! Totally worth the work it took to get to that point. Aside from dropping from aircraft, there is no other way a person could get there and that felt incredible. This was the only day we saw no other people. All day. Just us! About 1.5 miles down from the pass and through a meadow, we made camp on the river in a beautiful granite and wooded site. I found a wonderful freezing cold "bathtub" in the river to sit in.

Matterhorn Canyon

Day 6 - Another day, another pass. This time Mule Pass. Not much creativity in naming these passes. Ha! Another hike through a meadow with a bit of minor ups and downs and a build up to the pass. It was much less elevation increase and we planned to eat lunch at the top. But once we got there, it didn't seem like a great place to stay. So we continued on a bit further and found a rock overhang with some rock fall and snow where we ate lunch. We crawled under the rock and found a great place to sit, soak our feet and eat lunch. I had the most comfortable chair during this time that I had the entire trip! Ha! Over Mule Pass and on to Crown Lake. All gradual downhill. Ahh! We could see Crown Lake from a ways off and could see that there were people on the northeast side where it looked like the best sites were. When we finally got to the lake ourselves, seven of us waited until the two leaders ran around the entire wilderness looking for a place to camp. We ended up staying put where we were. The walk to the lake was about .5 miles but worth it for the cold relief. The night was cool and clear with lots of shooting stars and we stayed up a little later than usual talking and playing cards. Our last night out. 

Day 7 - We got up early and started out a bit slow. I don't think any of us wanted to be done with the trip. Even though we also wanted to be done with the trip! Off we went toward Barney Lake. The first part of the trail was pretty gentle up and down but then the rocks and boulders took over. Another mule train passed by going up. And before I knew it, I could see the beach on Barney Lake where we were heading. And then... we were there. Sitting on the sand eating lunch... Babybell cheese, crackers, and some nuts. Some swimming and some feet soaking. Then other groups starting showing up and it seemed like it was time to get out. It was through meadows with ongoing "just one more look" at the scenery we were leaving. But, as one of the leaders said, "we can smell the barn!" and were hiking faster than we had the entire trip. Despite our speed, the trail seemed to keep going on and on. Several of us had to go to the bathroom so that didn't help matters. The trail basically ends at an RV Resort at Mono Village Resort so there were bathrooms... with toilets... available. Wahoo! Back at the parking lot, we got our boots off asap before sharing any last thoughts, feelings, etc. Then it was time for some food and drink before heading home.

An incredible adventure with some incredible women! I would totally recommend the Matterhorn Loop to anyone wanting to disconnect from electronics and the rush of life.

Svea 123 - Vintage Compact Backpacking Stove

Svea 123, a photo by twotiredoc on Flickr.

Picked up this little gem at a Sierra Club Gear Swap. I bought a cook set that we wanted to take some parts from for our car camping. I opened it up while there and saw something inside but figured I'd examine it more closely when we got home. When I did examine it more closely, turns out it was this Svea 123 compact backpacking stove! I had no idea how to use it so I went to my usual source for instructions... YouTube! Of course there were plenty of videos to help me out. So I followed all the instructions... lit the match... and whouuph... it works! The warning that it sounds like a jet engine was helpful because it certainly was loud compared to my little Whisperlite.

Pretty good deal... for ONE DOLLAR!

For those of you that enjoy this kind of thing, here's the history of the Svea 123 from Wikipedia:

Svea stoves were first made by Nybergs Lödlampfabrik, which also manufactured blowtorches as well as other machinery and equipment. Founded by Carl Nyberg, the firm later became one of the largest industries inSundbyberg, Sweden. In 1922, the business was taken over by Max Sievert, an early associate of Nyberg’s, and renamed Sieverts Lödlampfabrik (later known as Sievert AB). The Svea 123, introduced in 1955, is considered to be the first compact backpacking white gas stove^[1] and one of the most popular camping stoves ever made.^[2]Its distinctive “roaring” sound has been likened to that of a jet engine at takeoff.^[3] In 1969, the Svea brand was acquired by Optimus,^[4] another Swedish manufacturer of portable stoves, which has continued production of the Svea 123 to the present day. Because of its simple design^[5] and reputation for dependable performance,^[6]even under extreme conditions,^[7] the Svea 123 enjoys a devoted following.

The popularity of portable camping stoves such as the Svea coincided with the increase during the 1950s and 1960s in the awareness of the environmental impact of backpacking,^[8] particularly in heavily-traveled areas,^[9] and the rise of the Leave No Trace ethic in the 1970s and 1980s.^[10] At the same time, scarcity of fuel in over-used camping areas as well as regulatory requirements (open-fire bans) also contributed to the need for a substitute for open campfires for "wilderness" area cooking.^[11] Eventually stoves that were lighter in weight than the Svea, as well as those of other designs that were capable of burning a wider variety of fuels (useful when camping in other parts of the world where white gas is difficult to find) knocked it from its perch as one of the most popular backpacking stoves after nearly 50 years of production.^[12]However, the rugged and durable Svea 123—often described by long-time users as "bomb-proof"^[13] -- still remains popular and continues in wide use.^[14]