Superior Hiking Trail - Overnight Solo from Lutsen to Poplar River

So the plan evolved to a one-night solo on a small portion of the Superior Hiking Trail in Northern Minnesota. My focus went from a long backpacking trip to the idea of solo backpacking, which was terrifying to me. 👀 I tightened up my gear to make it more appropriate for such a short trip and started focusing on the mental aspects of backpacking alone. Enough people were telling me I was crazy for wanting to try this that defending my choice gave me the opportunity to focus on the positives of the challenge. The main positive was just the idea of knowing I could be out there on my own if need be. I also believed doing so would improve my backpacking confidence overall.

I chose to start at the Lutsen Mountains Recreation Area and to camp approximately 1.5 miles north at the West Poplar River campsite. The hiking distance was important because I also had to drive approximately five hours, without stops, that day. I got a bit of a late start and didn't end up leaving until about noon. That's not so abnormal for me. But I also know I was putzing around because I felt nervous about being out overnight on my own in bear country.

I had promised those concerned that I would stop to pick up bear spray on my way there. Turns out bear spray (along with fuel canisters) are in short supply as people are heading into the backcountry in droves during COVID19. So I had to drive about 45 minutes out of my way to pick it up (Thanks to Greg at REI Maple Grove for setting the spray and holster aside for me!). Everything went very smoothly and it was beautiful out, but it was a long drive.

I arrived in Lutsen around 6:00pm and parked in the very small gravel parking area right at the trailhead spur. There's a larger parking area down by the Lutsen mountain/gondola. It certainly wasn't dark at that point, but it was close enough to dusk that I was feeling pretty nervous. I considered sleeping in my car and getting started first thing in the morning. But the goal was to face my fears... and here they were, right in my face. So I got my backpack packed up, arranged things in my car so it was clear there was nothing of value in there, and headed out.

The first bit is on gravel road, which took me to the turn toward Mystery Mountain and a bit further to the turn I needed toward Poplar River. I'm not sure how far the gravel road goes but from the map, it doesn't look like it goes much further. So I turned onto the actual Superior Hiking Trail toward North Caribou Trail, which passes Poplar River.

I was immediately enveloped in the dark forest. I knew there was plenty of daylight to walk 1.5-ish miles. But my mind immediately went on hyperdrive and I became afraid of getting caught in the dark and afraid of a potential bear encounter. The first bit is sharply upward, so my mind also went into questioning my ability. Honestly, it was the scariest hike I've ever been on. It felt VERY long! I kept checking my watch to see how far I'd gone and then I'd double check on my Earthmate/inReach to see how far I'd gone. Doing that, of course, added time. lol But I just felt like I needed to know where I was and how much further I needed to go. I assume, with more soloing experience, these thoughts quiet and I would not have to check so often.

I made myself stop at a couple overlooks, partly just to take some deep calming breaths and partly to break out of the suffocating forest. Note: I love suffocating forest usually, but my fears did not allow me to enjoy it this time.

Back on the trail, I powerwalked the rest of the way with a constant string of "Hey bear! Hey bear!" and a periodic "Just coming through!" Honestly... I was scared sh*tless. lol I kept asking myself why I was choosing to do this on my own. Then I thought I could turn around and sleep in the car. Until I went downhill and then decided there was no way I was going to climb again just to get back to the car.

I heard some small cracks and other noises. I stopped once in awhile to listen more closely. It was nothing. Then I went around a curve and heard "THE BIG CRACK." Oh hell. I stopped and heard it again. "Hey Bear!" I kept walking and heard it again. Do bears follow? I thought they turned tail when they heard humans. Then another crack... close. I turned and saw...

The cracking sounds were from a fire a couple people had started in the campsite. lol I was SO relieved to be there. I'm afraid I might have passed by it had they not had a fire going. The sign was not clear going north, I had to turn to see it.

I was also glad there were a couple people there before me. It would have been a "pure" solo if I'd camped alone. But the hike offered enough fears to face.

Got my camp all set up... on an angle. There were no flat spots that I could find. Maybe the two people who got there before me had the only flat spots. Who knows.

Once everything was set up, organized, and having a bit of food, the bugs started to come out. I was in my tent by 9pm. It was a near full moon, so it was pretty bright all night long. I kept sliding down sideways and had to reposition myself many times. With the sliding, hearing every single noise, and generally not sleeping well my first night in a new place, I slept approximately one (1) hour the whole night. I did expect that so I had downloaded some shows on my phone to watch. Not something I would usually do while backpacking, but I'm very glad I did this time!

I was up early the next morning and enjoyed my morning couscous on a lookout over Poplar River. That was relaxing!

Then I packed up and headed back to my car. I was still pretty scared walking in the woods. That part surprised me. I can only attribute it to how close in the forest was and how easily a bear could have just popped out of the woods for us to surprise each other. I ran into a couple women and their dog, which was a comfort... except that they didn't have masks and didn't seem concerned with physical distancing. So I moved aside and put my mask on. They asked how long I'd been out and I shared that it had been one night but it was my first solo and they were very encouraging... "You got this woman!" 😁

I made it back to the car without incident and had several other people ask about my trip. Each of them congratulated me on my first solo night in the woods. That helped me feel more pride in the accomplishment as I had been downplaying it in my head the entire time... "It's just a short hike and just one night." But, it was a big deal to me and it felt awesome to have others acknowledge that.

I drove to Grand Marais (there's a detour right now, so be aware) to get some S&O pizza. But they were CLOSED! That's why I'm not putting their whole name. Grr! So I ended up where it seems I always end up when in Grand Marais and got Walleye fingers from Blue Water Cafe, which hit the spot.

After sleeping an hour and all the fear coursing through my body the previous day, I was very tired! So instead of driving all day, I decided to stop at a KOA to get some rest.

I then drove well-rested back home the next day. Overall, a successful trip in which I met the goals I set and managed the mental difficulties and fear of backpacking solo. It was certainly different than the plan for 2 weeks along the TRT. But that will come in the future and I'm happy to have experienced some growth in my backcountry comfort.

Back and Forth, Back and Forth, and a Decision

Back and forth, back and forth! With COVID19 in the mix, my friends decided a couple month ago they would not be doing the TRT. They didn't feel safe flying. I didn't either, so I began planning a drive, which I would do with only stops for gas and for camping. But recently, with California getting worse regarding COVID-19, that didn't seem like the best idea. And now California is basicallly shut down again, so I made a good choice not to go.

So I was looking for multi-day hikes near me. There are many! Everything was up in the air for weeks. I'm pretty comfortable with that overall, but it's starting to get to the point where I need to make a decision. So here it is!

I've continued to work on my fitness. But with everything closed for so long, most of that has been through the Peloton app. I've been spinning, doing body weight strength training, lots of stretching, and walks. I've gotten a few hikes in, but probably not as many as I should have.

I still plan to do the entirety of the TRT... hopefully next year. That'll give me more time to plan and be really ready for some big days. Hopefully, my friends would then be able to join me. But this year I'm planning to do a small portion of the Superior Hiking Trail in Northern Minnesota. I don't have time this year to do the complete 310 miles so I'll likely do a very short section and focus on the fact that it'll be my first time backpacking solo. Which section is still to be determined. This will also allow me to spend some of my vacation time with family.

We'll be taking a road trip to get there. We'll have our food with us so no need to stop for that on the way. We're also camping, so no interactions with people. The only stops that may involve people will be gas. We're still figuring out the bathroom, but are comfortable with copping a squat wherever we can while leaving no trace.

Northern State Recreation Area aka Northern State Mental Hospital

Another relatively easy hike with some potential bad weather that didn't show itself until just after we were settled for our post-hike lunch. Northern State Recretion Area used to be a State Hospital. Some of the buildings are still there, some are still intact and being used by other organizations and some are in serious disrepair with falling walls and roofs.




We ended up walking mainly amongst the buildings because the trail around the more forested area was mostly under water. In 2 hours, we wandered around approximately 2 miles with lots of stops to look at the surroundings.




There is also a disc golf course there and some people were out playing. I think it would be more fun without so much water. Also seems like a great place for some flat running.

Afterwards we headed to Sedro-Woolley for some lunch. Just after we ordered, a hard rain started falling. Great timing!

Squires Lake Trail

Went for a walk with some friends today. It was described as a level hike, which should have been described as a decent climb to the flat section. It was a short hike (approx 2 miles) and we were each of different fitness levels. One other person and I took an upper loop  with a bit more climbing, but then we met up with the rest of the group and a half mile in.

So, aside from my weekly spinning, this begins my official training for the TRT.

Announcement - Tahoe Rim Trail

I've committed to backpacking the Tahoe Rim Trail (TRT) during Summer 2020. The TRT is 165 miles and I'll plan to take a couple weeks. Some people can do it in a week or less, but I'm not there at this point. So I'll do 11-12 miles/day at least with the hope that I'll be in good enough shape to do longer days so I can take 1-2 rest days in Tahoe City and/or South Lake Tahoe.

I've already got most of my gear and am currently shopping for an ultralight sleeping bag. I bought a tent recently that I haven't gotten to try yet. I did try to put it up in the family room, but it's supported by hiking poles so I could not get it completely erected without damaging the floors. I'll share a review of it once I get a chance to use it.

So now, it's time to get back into backpacking shape.

Town Loop - 3 mile section

Today was mainly for training purposes. It helps to know if you can walk 6 miles before you put yourself in a position to snowshoe 6 miles. So we walked half the loop around our town and saw a few areas that we'd never been before. The Arboretum is always very pretty to walk through. With the more recent significant rain, it was more green and there was more water for the ducks to swim around in. With that rain also came some downed trees. One in particular was a large redwood, which was pretty sad to see. The middle portion of the walk was behind some businesses and along a creek/slough. So it was beautiful on one side and buildings on the other. But still nice. Then into a more residential area behind apartments. With a farm on the other side... some cows were lounging and watching what was going on. About that time it was three miles so we turned around to head back. We stopped for a snack (crunchy sweet potato fries) and ate those as we walked toward home.

All in all a successful training walk. I need to loosen up my hip flexors again so that's good to know. Get to stretching!

Matterhorn Loop - August 2016

(53 miles) Trailhead at Twin Lakes, parking at Mono Village Resort, "nine strong women."

Day 1 (~7 miles) - We started out in Crags Campground where we each grabbed a bear can and either a stove or fuel canister. We had to drive to Annett's Mono Village where the trailhead is, register the cars, and then start out through the RV park.  So the start was nice and gentle through the RV park. We got a few comments, questions, and encouragements. Then it started out gradually up and I'm thinking, oh yeah, I can do this. And then it got real... quick. We passed Barney Lake and then it was up and it was rocky. This was billed as our most difficult day so no surprise that it just kept going up with lots of rock steps. One mule train passed us going the opposite direction. As they were coming toward us, we all looked at the leaders for advice about where to go on the single track with a pretty good drop and mules coming at us. Basically we just pressed ourselves against the upward rock and one of the leaders told us to hold on. lol No incidents. I did struggle with how I felt about the mules traveling over that terrain with all the weight of humans' gear. Everyone else seemed to think they enjoy the work and that they enjoy the 8 months of the year vacation.

We made it to the top of the lollipop stick and "hung a right" toward Peeler Lake. It would have been helpful to know that "Hey! We're at the lake!" does not mean we're done hiking yet. To find camp, we had to continue up and down the rocky edge of the lake... probably another mile. But we found a great site with an obvious kitchen right on a creek. I camped on the granite with a nice granite shelf next to me and a tree for hanging things. Views in every direction!

My campsite

The view from my tent

Day 2 - A "recovery" day through Kerrick Meadow with a bit of a non-recovery climb up Seavey Pass. The meadow was incredible! The trail was about 8 inches wide so we really had to watch our steps. That was difficult since I wanted to look around all the time. As the day progressed, it did get very hot in the wide open space. At some point we crossed a river that was low but still enough to get our feet wet. But one of the group fell on her butt in the water and then couldn't get up because of her pack. Not too dangerous in this situation but a reminder for those harder river crossings to disconnect the waist belt. I think she actually ended up being grateful for the wet pants because of the heat. lol

Eventually we began climbing up Seavey Pass. At that point, another member started feeling sick with gastrointestinal issues. She climbed Seavey like a trooper and we took it a bit slower. We passed a lake, whose name I don't know, where there were a few campsites but they were too small for our group. So we kept climbing just over the pass to a hidden campsite that would fit us. As we started getting settled, the leaders came by and said there was a better site just on the other side of some rocks. So we picked everything up and moved to the new site. I just carried my tent with the poles in it. lol The lake next to the site was pretty sludgy so we had water to cook with but no one swam in it. I did take the opportunity to wash my shirt but it didn't help much. I and another member of the group set up just to the side of the kitchen. That was good for less distance walking while there. BUT... at night I realized that the kitchen is where the bears will likely go first. Oops! But, aside from getting up to go to the bathroom 3 times in the first two hours of the night, all was well.

View from the campsite over the sludgy water

Day 3 - A downhill off Seavey Pass for about 3 miles before taking a .4 mile detour for some swimming, relaxation, and lunch at Benson Lake. While there, a mule/horse train went through with two wranglers(?) and one customer. It was my day to serve lunch and PB&J on tortillas it was. After lunch and some foot maintenance, we headed off for Smedburg Lake where we would spend two nights. It was flat coming out from the lake but then began to climb for a couple miles. The climbing intensified the last 1.5 miles. I was not feeling well by this point so those last miles, including the climbs, were torture. Others did not struggle nearly as much so it was not likely "that" difficult. It was just my day to struggle apparently. At Smedburg Lake, we made camp on the granite on the southwest side with a high kitchen overlooking the lake. Our neighbor was a young man named Seth who asked if he could cook us some fish. Uh. Yeah! About six of us shared a trout but even with just one bite, I could tell it was scrumptious! Dinner was tomato soup and polenta stew.

Day 4 - A rest day for four of us while the other five did a dayhike to Surprise Lake. We made pancakes for breakfast and then my time cooking was over for a few days. The dayhikers said it was awesome and beautiful but I enjoyed hanging out at the lake swimming, doing laundry, and reading. When the other five returned, three of us were doing yoga. Volunteer Peak watched over us and was a beautiful site at every stage of the day.

Volunteer Peak

Day 5 - After a rest day, it was not too easy to get up and get going. But I definitely felt rested. Off we went to finally make our way into Matterhorn Canyon. Wow! We made our way over Benson Pass, which did not seem too much. As we traveled through Matterhorn Canyon, we were approaching Burro Pass, our main goal for the day. We stopped for lunch at the headwaters of Matterhorn Creek. A few drank directly from the creek since there is no crossover above that point. No one got sick so must be okay. I didn't risk it. After a good lunch (hummus and crackers), we headed out toward Burro Pass, which we'd had trouble pointing out while sitting for lunch. It was not where we thought it was but we were close. It was a hot dry climb up numerous switchbacks for about 45-minutes. When we reached the top, there was a snow drift that we were able to play in to cool off. The 360 degree views were amazing! Totally worth the work it took to get to that point. Aside from dropping from aircraft, there is no other way a person could get there and that felt incredible. This was the only day we saw no other people. All day. Just us! About 1.5 miles down from the pass and through a meadow, we made camp on the river in a beautiful granite and wooded site. I found a wonderful freezing cold "bathtub" in the river to sit in.

Matterhorn Canyon

Day 6 - Another day, another pass. This time Mule Pass. Not much creativity in naming these passes. Ha! Another hike through a meadow with a bit of minor ups and downs and a build up to the pass. It was much less elevation increase and we planned to eat lunch at the top. But once we got there, it didn't seem like a great place to stay. So we continued on a bit further and found a rock overhang with some rock fall and snow where we ate lunch. We crawled under the rock and found a great place to sit, soak our feet and eat lunch. I had the most comfortable chair during this time that I had the entire trip! Ha! Over Mule Pass and on to Crown Lake. All gradual downhill. Ahh! We could see Crown Lake from a ways off and could see that there were people on the northeast side where it looked like the best sites were. When we finally got to the lake ourselves, seven of us waited until the two leaders ran around the entire wilderness looking for a place to camp. We ended up staying put where we were. The walk to the lake was about .5 miles but worth it for the cold relief. The night was cool and clear with lots of shooting stars and we stayed up a little later than usual talking and playing cards. Our last night out. 

Day 7 - We got up early and started out a bit slow. I don't think any of us wanted to be done with the trip. Even though we also wanted to be done with the trip! Off we went toward Barney Lake. The first part of the trail was pretty gentle up and down but then the rocks and boulders took over. Another mule train passed by going up. And before I knew it, I could see the beach on Barney Lake where we were heading. And then... we were there. Sitting on the sand eating lunch... Babybell cheese, crackers, and some nuts. Some swimming and some feet soaking. Then other groups starting showing up and it seemed like it was time to get out. It was through meadows with ongoing "just one more look" at the scenery we were leaving. But, as one of the leaders said, "we can smell the barn!" and were hiking faster than we had the entire trip. Despite our speed, the trail seemed to keep going on and on. Several of us had to go to the bathroom so that didn't help matters. The trail basically ends at an RV Resort at Mono Village Resort so there were bathrooms... with toilets... available. Wahoo! Back at the parking lot, we got our boots off asap before sharing any last thoughts, feelings, etc. Then it was time for some food and drink before heading home.

An incredible adventure with some incredible women! I would totally recommend the Matterhorn Loop to anyone wanting to disconnect from electronics and the rush of life.