Wednesday, August 05, 2020

Superior Hiking Trail - Overnight Solo from Lutsen to Poplar River

So the plan evolved to a one-night solo on a small portion of the Superior Hiking Trail in Northern Minnesota. My focus went from a long backpacking trip to the idea of solo backpacking, which was terrifying to me. 👀 I tightened up my gear to make it more appropriate for such a short trip and started focusing on the mental aspects of backpacking alone. Enough people were telling me I was crazy for wanting to try this that defending my choice gave me the opportunity to focus on the positives of the challenge. The main positive was just the idea of knowing I could be out there on my own if need be. I also believed doing so would improve my backpacking confidence overall.

I chose to start at the Lutsen Mountains Recreation Area and to camp approximately 1.5 miles north at the West Poplar River campsite. The hiking distance was important because I also had to drive approximately five hours, without stops, that day. I got a bit of a late start and didn't end up leaving until about noon. That's not so abnormal for me. But I also know I was putzing around because I felt nervous about being out overnight on my own in bear country.

SHT - Lutsen to Grand Marais

I had promised those concerned that I would stop to pick up bear spray on my way there. Turns out bear spray (along with fuel canisters) are in short supply as people are heading into the backcountry in droves during COVID19. So I had to drive about 45 minutes out of my way to pick it up (Thanks to Greg at REI Maple Grove for setting the spray and holster aside for me!). Everything went very smoothly and it was beautiful out, but it was a long drive.

I arrived in Lutsen around 6:00pm and parked in the very small gravel parking area right at the trailhead spur. There's a larger parking area down by the Lutsen mountain/gondola. It certainly wasn't dark at that point, but it was close enough to dusk that I was feeling pretty nervous. I considered sleeping in my car and getting started first thing in the morning. But the goal was to face my fears... and here they were, right in my face. So I got my backpack packed up, arranged things in my car so it was clear there was nothing of value in there, and headed out.

The first bit is on gravel road, which took me to the turn toward Mystery Mountain and a bit further to the turn I needed toward Poplar River. I'm not sure how far the gravel road goes but from the map, it doesn't look like it goes much further. So I turned onto the actual Superior Hiking Trail toward North Caribou Trail, which passes Poplar River.

SHT Trailhead - Lutsen Mountains Rec Area


I was immediately enveloped in the dark forest. I knew there was plenty of daylight to walk 1.5-ish miles. But my mind immediately went on hyperdrive and I became afraid of getting caught in the dark and afraid of a potential bear encounter. The first bit is sharply upward, so my mind also went into questioning my ability. Honestly, it was the scariest hike I've ever been on. It felt VERY long! I kept checking my watch to see how far I'd gone and then I'd double check on my Earthmate/inReach to see how far I'd gone. Doing that, of course, added time. lol But I just felt like I needed to know where I was and how much further I needed to go. I assume, with more soloing experience, these thoughts quiet and I would not have to check so often.

I made myself stop at a couple overlooks, partly just to take some deep calming breaths and partly to break out of the suffocating forest. Note: I love suffocating forest usually, but my fears did not allow me to enjoy it this time.

SHT - Ski Area and Lake Superior overlook

SHT - Glove Overlook

Back on the trail, I powerwalked the rest of the way with a constant string of "Hey bear! Hey bear!" and a periodic "Just coming through!" Honestly... I was scared sh*tless. lol I kept asking myself why I was choosing to do this on my own. Then I thought I could turn around and sleep in the car. Until I went downhill and then decided there was no way I was going to climb again just to get back to the car.

I heard some small cracks and other noises. I stopped once in awhile to listen more closely. It was nothing. Then I went around a curve and heard "THE BIG CRACK." Oh hell. I stopped and heard it again. "Hey Bear!" I kept walking and heard it again. Do bears follow? I thought they turned tail when they heard humans. Then another crack... close. I turned and saw...

The cracking sounds were from a fire a couple people had started in the campsite. lol I was SO relieved to be there. I'm afraid I might have passed by it had they not had a fire going. The sign was not clear going north, I had to turn to see it.

I was also glad there were a couple people there before me. It would have been a "pure" solo if I'd camped alone. But the hike offered enough fears to face.

Got my camp all set up... on an angle. There were no flat spots that I could find. Maybe the two people who got there before me had the only flat spots. Who knows.

Once everything was set up, organized, and having a bit of food, the bugs started to come out. I was in my tent by 9pm. It was a near full moon, so it was pretty bright all night long. I kept sliding down sideways and had to reposition myself many times. With the sliding, hearing every single noise, and generally not sleeping well my first night in a new place, I slept approximately one (1) hour the whole night. I did expect that so I had downloaded some shows on my phone to watch. Not something I would usually do while backpacking, but I'm very glad I did this time!

I was up early the next morning and enjoyed my morning couscous on a lookout over Poplar River. That was relaxing!

SHT - Fruity Breakfast Couscous

Then I packed up and headed back to my car. I was still pretty scared walking in the woods. That part surprised me. I can only attribute it to how close in the forest was and how easily a bear could have just popped out of the woods for us to surprise each other. I ran into a couple women and their dog, which was a comfort... except that they didn't have masks and didn't seem concerned with physical distancing. So I moved aside and put my mask on. They asked how long I'd been out and I shared that it had been one night but it was my first solo and they were very encouraging... "You got this woman!" 😁

I made it back to the car without incident and had several other people ask about my trip. Each of them congratulated me on my first solo night in the woods. That helped me feel more pride in the accomplishment as I had been downplaying it in my head the entire time... "It's just a short hike and just one night." But, it was a big deal to me and it felt awesome to have others acknowledge that.

I drove to Grand Marais (there's a detour right now, so be aware) to get some S&O pizza. But they were CLOSED! That's why I'm not putting their whole name. Grr! So I ended up where it seems I always end up when in Grand Marais and got Walleye fingers from Blue Water Cafe, which hit the spot.

After sleeping an hour and all the fear coursing through my body the previous day, I was very tired! So instead of driving all day, I decided to stop at a KOA to get some rest.

KOA

I then drove well-rested back home the next day. Overall, a successful trip in which I met the goals I set and managed the mental difficulties and fear of backpacking solo. It was certainly different than the plan for 2 weeks along the TRT. But that will come in the future and I'm happy to have experienced some growth in my backcountry comfort.